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Paving

Asphalt driveway paving in Orlando

New asphalt driveways, overlays, rebuilt aprons and small lots across Orange, Seminole, Osceola and Lake counties. A driveway that has only faded needs sealer. One that has sunk, split into plates or lost its edges to the lawn needs asphalt, and this page is about telling those apart and what a paving job here actually involves.

Before anything else

Asphalt or pavers

In a lot of Orlando subdivisions the driveway is not asphalt at all. It is interlocking brick or concrete pavers, and plenty of owners are deciding between re-laying pavers and switching to blacktop. We lay and maintain asphalt. We do not seal, re-sand or re-level pavers, and we would rather say so here than waste your morning.

If you are weighing the two, the honest differences are these. Asphalt is one continuous surface, so it has no joints for weeds and ants to work through, and it is usually the cheaper surface to put down per square foot. It is also dark, it gets hot to bare feet in July, and it needs a coat of sealer every few years to hold off the sun. Pavers cost more to lay, can be lifted and relaid in patches, and some communities require them. Check your deed restrictions before you pick.

Reading the damage

Four ways to deal with a tired drive, cheapest first

  1. Seal it. Grey, dry and chalky but still one piece. A coat of sealer and filled cracks bring it back, and paving would be money spent early. The driveway tests settle it in five minutes.
  2. Patch it. Mostly sound, with a few spots that have given way: a dip where a downspout empties, a broken edge by the mailbox, a hole where a truck turned. Those are cut out and rebuilt. See driveway and asphalt repair.
  3. Overlay it. A fresh layer of hot asphalt over the old surface, which only works when the ground underneath is still firm and the drive still drains. It fixes a rough, cracked, patched-over top. It does not fix a sinking one.
  4. Tear it out and rebuild. For a drive whose base has let go: connected cracks that look like scales, low spots that hold rain for a day, edges crumbling into the grass. New asphalt over a failing base inherits every crack within a couple of summers.
What it sits on

Sand, water and roots under Central Florida asphalt

Florida's official state soil, Myakka, is a sand, and in its natural state the water table in it can sit within about ten inches of the surface for months at a time. Most driveways here are built on sand of one kind or another. Sand drains quickly, which is good, but it has no strength of its own when it is wet and it washes out from under an edge that nothing is holding in place.

So a rebuilt driveway here lives or dies on three things. A compacted stone base thick enough to spread a car's weight across soft ground. Edges that are supported, so the sand beside the drive is not the only thing keeping the asphalt up. And a surface shaped to shed the afternoon rain toward the yard or the street rather than into the garage or along the edge where it will carry sand away.

Shade trees are the other local problem. Big roots travel under a drive, lift it into a ridge and crack it along the top. Paving over a root does not solve it. The quote will say where a root is the cause and what the options are, including leaving that section alone.

At the street

The apron, the permit, and what Florida law says about licenses

The apron, the piece between the sidewalk and the road, sits in the public right-of-way, and every city and county here wants a permit before it is replaced or widened. The rules for what the apron is made of change at each line. In unincorporated Seminole County the part in the right-of-way has to be concrete, not asphalt. The City of Orlando wants the apron the same width as the driveway. St. Cloud leaves resealing an existing asphalt drive off its permit list but wants its Public Works and Engineering staff to approve anything in the right-of-way. The county pages have the details for Orange, Seminole, Osceola and Lake.

One thing is the same everywhere in the state. Section 489.117 of the Florida Statutes lists driveway installation among the kinds of work a city or county may not require a contractor license for, and it may not require a license to pull the permit either. That means a permit on the job tells you the city will inspect the apron. It does not tell you anything about who is doing the work. Ask for the scope in writing.

The number

What decides the price of a paving job

Paving is priced per job, after the drive has been measured and someone has looked at what is under it. Nothing is quoted off a rate card, because these are the things that move the number:

You get one written price with the scope spelled out: what comes out, what goes back, how thick, and what happens at the street.

Timing

Paving between the storms, and waiting to seal

There is no winter shutdown here the way there is up north, so paving runs through the year. The limit is water. Hot asphalt cannot go down on a wet base, and from late spring through the end of summer the afternoons regularly end in a thunderstorm, so summer paving starts early and aims to be rolled before the clouds build. A day lost to rain moves; it does not get forced.

New asphalt then needs time before it is sealed, typically six to twelve months while the oils in the mix cure out and the surface hardens. Under the Florida sun the first coat of sealer is usually worth doing inside that second year, because UV is what greys a Central Florida driveway first.

Communities

If you have an HOA, ask it first

Many neighborhoods here have deed restrictions and an architectural review committee, and a change of driveway material, width or color can need its approval before work starts. Ask your association before booking. We can give you the written scope and a sketch for the application so the committee is approving what will actually be built.

Bigger surfaces

Lots, private roads and church drives

A lot is the same set of decisions spread over more ground. The entrance and the drive lanes usually need rebuilding long before the parking stalls do, so the cheapest plan is normally to rebuild the worst lanes, patch the rest, then seal and restripe the whole lot together so it wears as one surface. Commercial sealcoating covers how that gets phased around a business that stays open, and the HOA and property manager page covers communities.

Next step

Getting a paving quote

Send the address through the form and say it is about paving. A photo of the worst part helps. The drive gets measured and looked at, you hear honestly whether it needs paving or whether a patch and a seal will carry it a few more years, and if it does need paving you get the scope and one price in writing. Paving is done by a local independent paving contractor.

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