Crack filling, washed-out edges, root heaves, sunken spots and potholes, repaired properly across Greater Orlando. Most asphalt that looks finished is not. It has a handful of places that have failed, and fixing those before the summer rain gets under them is what saves the rest.
If failed areas cover a big share of the drive, patching each one costs more than an overlay or a rebuild, and you will be told that. See asphalt driveway paving.
Cold patch from the hardware store fills a hole for a while. It does not bond to the edges, it pushes out under tires in the heat, and it does nothing about why the hole formed. It is fine as a stopgap until a real repair is booked.
A real repair squares the failed area off with straight cuts back to solid asphalt, digs out the broken material, fixes the sand or stone underneath if that was the cause, then fills with hot asphalt compacted in layers. The joint around it is sealed so water cannot follow the seam down. For a washed-out edge that means rebuilding the edge and giving it support, so the lawn is not left holding the drive up again. For a root ridge it means a straight answer about the tree, because a patch over a growing root will lift again.
Small patches done before sealing are included in the sealing price. Larger areas, or repairs on their own without a coat of sealer, are priced as their own job.
Nothing freezes here, so the damage is slower and quieter. It comes from water. Through the summer the storms arrive most afternoons and drop a lot of rain fast. Every open crack takes some of it straight down into the sand under the asphalt, and sand that is saturated over and over starts to move: it settles, it shifts toward the low side, and it washes out at the edges. The asphalt above it has nothing to do but follow.
Then the sun takes its turn. Asphalt that is exposed to strong UV all year dries out, turns grey and brittle, and a brittle surface cracks faster. A crack that was a hairline in April can be a broken edge by October. Filling it, and sealing over it, is the cheapest money you will spend on a driveway.
Hurricane season adds one more reason. After a big storm, standing water and debris find every weak spot in a drive. A repair that is already done does not have to be done in a hurry afterwards with every crew in the region booked.
On a lot, failures cluster where heavy wheels turn: the entrance, the drive lanes, the dumpster enclosure, and the loading side of a building. Those are repaired first, then the whole lot is sealed and restriped so the new patches and the old surface weather together. For an HOA or a manager, the repair list sits on the same sheet as the sealing so the board sees one plan and one total. More on commercial sealcoating and on working with HOAs and managers.
A sealing job carries one price per square foot, and that price includes the crack filling and the small patches. Anything bigger, or a repair with no sealing, is priced per job once it has been seen, because the size of the area, how deep the failure goes and whether the base needs rebuilding all change the work. You get one written number before anything starts.
Will I see the patch? At first, yes. New asphalt is darker and smoother than a drive that has spent years in the sun. Sealing the whole drive afterwards is what makes it one surface again, which is why the two usually go together.
Can repairs happen in the rainy season? Yes, on dry mornings. Hot asphalt needs a dry hole and a dry base, so summer repairs start early and a day with rain already falling moves.
Do I need a permit for a repair? A repair that stays on your side of the sidewalk usually does not. Anything in the apron or the right-of-way does, and the rules differ by city. The county pages list what each city publishes.
Can you fix pavers? No. We work on asphalt only.
Send the address through the form with a photo of the damage if you can. You will be told what it is, whether a repair and a coat of sealer will do or whether it has gone past that, and what it costs. Repairs are done by local independent contractors.
